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THE AHILYADEVI COLLECTION

Three centuries of the Maheshwari sari

This exhibition celebrates the tercentenary of Devi Ahilyabai Holkar (1725–1795), one of India’s most revered and visionary women rulers. Known for her spiritual devotion and social reform, Devi Ahilyabai’s contributions to architecture and pilgrimage are well documented. Less acknowledged, however, is her enduring legacy in the realm of textile craft — the Maheshwari sari.

When she established her capital in Maheshwar in the mid 18th century, Devi Ahilyabai recognized the potential of the region’s dormant weaving tradition. By inviting both Hindu weavers from Surat and Muslim artisans from Burhanpur, she laid the foundation for a syncretic textile legacy that would provide sustainable livelihoods for generations. That tradition continues today through the REHWA Society, whose special collection of 15 saris is showcased in this exhibition.

Each sari in the Ahilyadevi Collection speaks to the deep heritage and contemporary evolution of the Maheshwari weave. Inspired by historic portraiture, the art of Ravi Varma
and A.X. Trinidade, and early Holkar aesthetics, the collection bridges past and present. Traditional colors like gulbasi pinks and haldi yellows sit alongside contemporary tones of mint and biscuti beige, while the characteristic temple-inspired borders anchor each piece in Devi Ahilyabai’s architectural vision.

Highlights include the Chandravati, a luxurious “neem reshmi” sari echoing the elegance of Maharani Chandravati Holkar, handwoven with zari and over 2,000 ‘rui phool’ motifs. Equally significant are the revived garb reshmi saris—feather-light textiles woven using rare techniques like pajni and ochna, safeguarded today by 92-year-old Tulsa Bai.

This show is not merely about textiles, but about legacy, continuity, and the quiet, dignified artistry of Maheshwar’s weavers many of whom are women carrying forward Devi Ahilyabai’s vision 250 years later.

REHWA

Founded in 1978 by Prince Richard & Padma Shri Sally Holkar, REHWA Society is a not for-profit organization dedicated to the revival and sustainable development of Maheshwari weaving. Rooted in the historic town of Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh, the Society provides dignified employment to handloom artisans - in particularly women, while preserving the intricate textile traditions first patronized by Devi Ahilyabai Holkar in the 18th century. As custodian of the Maheshwari handloom tradition, REHWA remains committed to heritage, quality, and community-led craftsmanship.